if it only happens with that filament, its probably just that.

you could try some of the drying methods but that doesn’t look good at all

if you’re sure the filament is good then you want to look at the print settings and physical tensions on the belts and gears. maybe you need to look at the spot where your printer is located. can it add any wobble? one trick in the prusa community is putting your printer on a heavy flat yard paver stone and a thin foam under the paver

have you done a temp tower with it? maybe it doesn’t like your temp settings.

I’ve used old filament plenty of times and usually it just gets stringy

i think yours is a timing or temp problem

yeah… nice chatting with you because I am gonna put you on mute now

LOL I read your edit, jfk you are clearly ignorant.

https://www.prusa3d.com/page/open-source-at-prusa-research_236812/

there is a lot of open source give and take you dumbass

why are you trying to change what I wrote? Its clearly there. I said none of that. You need to check yourself bro

OMG monetized their platform. Because they are a business. I suspect you have no knowledge of their platform or how they do business or where or the history of their founder.

Ok, but I didnt say they are not a for-profit company

Prusa being “for profit” isn’t the same as the term implies.

They are very much a socialistic company. Pretty much, their business model is open source.

I think they are the winning choice in the same way that Valve’s Steam wins the game store/manager market.

Prusa has given back as much as they have made.

this hobby needs old guys with lots of time and equipment to do these types of things :D

So?

I suspect you fit that category of people who are really fun at parties

DON’T PANIC

There’s a massive wave of learning curve for 3D printing. It’s ABSOLUTELY subjective to the individual. So always keep in mind that you’re going to need to do almost all of it yourself.

The funny thing I experienced about the learning curve is how fun it is to ride the wave of “oh I understand now, let me try that… OMG what did I do?! Aaareggggg! Ok, I’ll try again tomorrow. Next week well wtf that was so easy. How did I not get that the first time?”

So the first thing to remember, not all printers provide a similar experience. You can end up with a model of the same filament and same size and to the naked eye, totally the same. But from different printers, could have black and white approaches and steps.

In general there’s a few programs that will let a PC directly connect to a 3D printer. It’s usually USB and manufacturers usually probably the drivers. If not any Linux system is gonna be able to talk to it. Windows is the one that might not talk to USB on a COM channel.

Direct connection is only needed in my case for upgrading the firmware. I have a Prusa MK3s Frankenstein. I have modified a bit of it.

Before I mod’d it took a bit to really tune it in. but now it’s really bulletproof and goes perfectly even after sitting for a while.

Remember to learn the basics for the printer you go with and then look at the mods

Steam’s recent update to carve out a category for demo’s is kinda what you are asking for. At least it is in the right direction, if devs follow it.

The tungsten carbide nozzle that I use is pretty good. I have only ever had one clog and I was using old filament. I just heated the head to ABS levels and it drained the clog simple enough. When I have had clogs with brass nozzles it can be a chore to clear it. Sometimes requiring taking the whole thing apart. So the tungsten does it all from what I can tell. I havn’t changed it in over a year and my prints come out looking great. The quality of the filament is a big factor. I use the prusa recycled filament for most of my first runs. The heat expansion is splitting hairs on their part. Maybe for science or industrial level uses its an important factor but in home hobby use, its probably next to impossible to tell if it does matter. The optimal temp is always different depending on the users environment.

I’d probably try this diamondback nozzle if I need to replace the tungsten and I can find more independent reviews. It just feels like they are banking on the diamond part being OMG its the hardest material but the ruby is almost as hard and has more field tested and reviewed history to it. Plus its got the pretty red tip while the diamonback has a gray graphite look to it.

From their information it’s like super amazing but that’s not always translated to actual use. I tried finding more reviews but couldn’t find anything.

Do you have one of those? Have you used any other hardened nozzles? I’m still under the impression that the ruby tip is king for the cost and reputation

Not sure if I see a difference but it’s more expensive.

The time and care required to changing the nozzle (unless you’ve got a good mod or fancy system) isn’t worth it IMO.

Quality > Quantity

This solution to abrasive filament is a tungsten nozzle or one of the ruby tip ones. The cost is a bit expensive but with a tungsten nozzle you might be one and done

Fuckin devs…

That’s pretty cool. Where I work, there’s a computer museum and all of our stuff boots up and we have gotten them to load stuff but it’s a chore. We have an Apple Lisa but it’s a stupid thing. It’s best feature is the happy mac boot image and ding. Otherwise it’s useless.

There was global leader boards way back in the day. I think it was called the Quake World League, it was one that would count Counter-Strike. I am not 100% but I think it used gamespy to do much of its work. I remember when it showed millions of people active and I was able to reach a top 20 in Counter-Strike one week. I was able to break the top 100 many times before it changed.